Your Go-To Guide for Laying New Turf
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Laying New Turf
Having a green lawn where you can relax, play and enjoy is part of the Australian dream. So, it goes without saying that laying new turf is an exciting time.
There is a lot to consider when you’re laying a new lawn. Not just which lawn variety you should choose but also what preparation needs to be done before the turf even arrives and then how to lay your turf as well as the care it needs once it’s laid.
This is your go-to guide for everything you need to know about laying a new lawn. We’ll discuss how to work out how much turf you’ll need, how to clear the site area, how to prepare the soil for a new lawn, how to lay your new turf and the immediate care required afterwards.
When is it the right time to lay a new lawn?
Luckily, you can install a new lawn any time of the year. However, there are benefits and drawbacks for laying your new lawn in each season.
Spring: This is the ideal time to lay your new lawn. You’ll find that your new lawn will establish itself quickly and won’t need as much water as in summer. However, if you are laying your lawn in late spring, you may still need to water your lawn more as it grows its root system.
Summer: Although a new lawn will grow very quickly during summer, it will require a huge amount of water to ensure it doesn’t dry out in the heat. Not only will your lawn need more water to maintain its growth, but you will lose more to evaporation.
Autumn: Autumn is the best time to lay a new lawn if you’re conscious about how much water you will need to use. The weather won’t be too cold, and your new lawn will have time to grow its root system before it goes into semi-hibernation during winter.
Winter: Even though lawns go into semi-hibernation during winter, you can still lay a lawn at this time. All it means is that your new lawn won’t establish its roots until winter is over. This does mean that your water requirements are almost halved, and you won’t need to mow until spring.
So, if you’re worried about how much water you will need to use, autumn or winter may be the best time for you. Or, if you’d rather have a luscious green lawn in time for summer BBQs, spring may be ideal for you. However, now is just as good a time as any.
Click here to choose the lawn variety that’s best for you
How much turf will I need for my yard?
So, you’ve chosen what turf variety you’d like and when you’d like to install it. The next step is to work out how much you will need.
Calculating your lawn area used to mean using a bunch of math formulas that we thought we’d left behind us in high school. Now, however, you can just enter the data in our lawn calculator, and it will do all the hard stuff for us.
But first, the part that we need to do:
- Break up your yard into rectangles and triangles
- Measure the length of each side of these shapes
- Put shape dimensions into our calculator
And there you have it, easy peasy!
We do recommend that you add 5% to your order. This is to make sure you’ll be able to cover any irregular shapes or for cuttings. We don’t want you to be almost finished and have a bare patch.
What is the best way to properly clear the site?
This one requires a bit of planning. Before you can install new turf, you need to make sure any unwanted plants, rocks or other bits of debris are cleared.
Rocks and other bits and pieces can often just be scooped up with a shovel. Weeds, however, can be quite a daunting task. The easiest thing to do is to spray the area with weed killer. Make sure you do this at least 14 days before you plan to lay your new lawn.
Will my current soil be okay for my new lawn?
Soil is incredibly important for any lawn, especially when it is trying to establish itself. Soil provides essential nutrients as well as water and air to your lawn’s roots. Depending on the quality of your current soil, you may need to improve it or adjust the soil type.
To check if you need to improve your soil’s quality, you can complete a pH test. These are relatively simple and will indicate how alkaline or acidic your soil is. Most varieties of warm-season grasses prefer a pH level between 6 and 7.
If your soil level is below 6, it’s too acidic and can improved with lime or dolomite. However, if it’s above 7, your soil is too alkaline. Sulphur will successfully lower the pH level of your soil.
Depending on your grass variety, your new lawn will have a preference to the type of soil. Most warm-season grasses love a sandy loam. Generally, this means it is 70% sand and 30% soil. The sand component allows water and air to move more freely through the soil.
If your current soil has a high clay content, you should add Gypsum which will break down the clay. Or, you can add a sandy soil or organic soil mix if your current soil has not enough, or too much, sand.
How do I prepare my soil for the new turf?
In the days leading up to your turf installation there are a few things you should do to ensure your soil is ready for the new lawn. You need to make sure it isn’t compacted, is level and you should add topsoil.
If your soil is compacted, air and water won’t be able to move through it easily and your new lawn won’t be able to grow. To test if your soil is compacted plunge a screwdriver or garden fork into the ground. If it goes in easily your soil is fine. However, if you have any difficulty with this, you should aerate your soil.
For smaller areas you can use aerating shoes or a garden fork but for larger areas you might consider hiring a coring machine.
Adding a layer of topsoil will make sure that your soil level is a good height and will also provide your newly installed lawn will all the nutrients it needs.
The topsoil should be a sandy loam soil and we recommend adding 100 to 150mm across the area. However, if you want your turf to line up with your driveway or other hard surfaces, allow 30 to 40mm for the turf and then calculate the topsoil depth from there.
When working out how much topsoil you’ll need simply multiply the area of your yard by how much depth you’d like. For example, I want 125mm of topsoil across my 30m2 yard. I will need 3750mm of soil.
Finally, you need to make sure it’s all level. Rake over the area or use a timber straight edge to do this. Once you have done this, consider sprinkling some Lawn Launcher over the top so your new lawn gets a moisture boost when it is laid. This would be especially hand to use if you’re laying turf in spring or summer.
The day before your turf is delivered you should thoroughly water your soil so that it has a degree of moisture in it. By doing it the day before, you give the soil time to soak it up and be ready to welcome the grass the next day.
What is the best way to lay my new turf?
Finally, everything you’ve been preparing for has come to this. Your new turf has been delivered and it’s ready to be installed.
Find the longest edge of your yard, it might be the driveway, a fence or a path and roll out your turf along this. Double check that all edges are butted up closely to each other but aren’t overlapping.
After you’ve completed this first strip, lay out the next one in a brick pattern. By staggering the edges, you’ll reduce any water erosion or risk of dry patches. Continue with a staggered brick pattern for the rest of the turf laying process.
If you’re laying turf around any odd shapes such as a tree or garden beds, simply cut the turf roll with a sharp knife or spade to the shape you need.
Once you’ve laid everything, step back and check for any air pockets. Smoothing these out will make sure there is good contact between the turf roots and soil.
If you’re laying turf around any odd shapes such as a tree or garden beds, simply cut the turf roll with a sharp knife or spade to the shape you need.
Once you’ve laid everything, step back and check for any air pockets. Smoothing these out will make sure there is good contact between the turf roots and soil.
I’ve laid my new turf, what now?
A new lawn will need some immediate care in order to give it the best chances at establishing its roots.
The first thing you should do is water your lawn. It will need to be soaked for the first day. After the first day, you should water every morning and afternoon, so the turf is kept moist for 14 days. In extremely hot and dry weather, you may need to water 4 to 5 times a day to keep the turf moist. However, depending on your water restrictions you may need to adjust this.
Your new lawn should start to establish its roots within the first 14 days and soon after you may notice that you can no longer lift the turf rolls. These roots will sprout from the existing sod and will look like thick white hairs. At this stage you can start to water every second day for the next 7 to 10 days as your turf fully establishes.
You should also fertilise your lawn 14 days after installation. This will feed your quickly growing lawn and should be done again every 8 weeks for the first 12 months.
Before you know it, you’ll be breathing in the fresh air and enjoying a warm day out on your new lawn. Did you know that all turf bought from Buy turf online’s comes with a 10-year warranty? If you have any questions or you’d like to make an order, feel free to contact us.
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Watering new turf properly is one of the most important parts of a successful lawn installation.
The turf may be freshly cut, delivered in good condition and laid beautifully, but if the watering is inadequate during establishment, the new lawn can still suffer. Dry edges, shrinking rolls, weak root development, patchy colour and slow recovery are signs of poor watering rather than turf quality issues.
For landscapers, a clear lawn watering schedule is not just helpful for the person maintaining the lawn. It also protects the quality of your work after handover.
The first few weeks matter most. During this time, the turf is adjusting from being harvested and installed to actively rooting into the soil below. The goal is to keep the turf alive, encourage root growth, avoid unnecessary stress and gradually transition the lawn into a normal watering routine.
This guide walks through a practical new lawn watering schedule for Australian conditions, including installation day, days 1–7, weeks 2–3, root establishment, seasonal adjustments, soil-type considerations and the transition to normal watering.
Why watering new turf properly matters
New turf is living grass that has been cut from its growing base, transported and installed onto a new soil profile. Until the roots grow into the soil below, the turf is left vulnerable.
In the early establishment phase, new turf relies heavily on consistent surface and upper soil moisture. If it dries out too quickly, the turf can shrink, curl at the edges, lift at the joins or begin to lose colour. However, if it's overwatered, especially in heavy or shaded soils, the site can become waterlogged, and oxygen movement through the soil becomes difficult.
Good watering is about balance.
During the first stage, the priority is keeping the turf and immediate soil profile moist. As the lawn begins to root, the goal gradually shifts toward deeper watering that encourages stronger root development. Once the turf has established, watering should move toward a normal lawn care routine based on the season, soil type, turf variety and site use.
For landscapers, this is why the watering plan should be explained clearly before the job is handed over. A new lawn does not simply need “a bit of water”. It needs the right watering at the right stage.
The landscaper's role before handover
A successful new turf watering schedule starts before the turf is even laid.
The soil profile needs to be prepared properly so water can move through the surface and into the root zone. If turf is laid onto dry, compacted, hydrophobic or poorly prepared soil, watering after installation becomes harder and less effective.
Before handover, landscapers should consider:
- Whether the soil has been properly prepared
- Whether the soil is moist enough before turf is installed
- Whether the site has hydrophobic soil or compaction issues
- Whether irrigation coverage is even
- Whether water is running off, pooling or failing to soak in
- Whether the client or site manager understands the watering requirements
- Who is responsible for watering after installation
Where possible, water the prepared soil before laying turf, especially in hot, dry or windy conditions. The soil should not be muddy or saturated, but it should have enough moisture to support the turf once it is installed. You may also wish to apply Lawn Launcher with water crystals to give a lawn the best start.
During installation, it is often best to water progressively. On warm days, do not wait until the entire lawn is laid before watering. Turf starts drying from the moment it is installed, particularly around edges, joins, slopes and exposed areas.
Before leaving the site, check that the lawn has been watered thoroughly and that the person responsible for ongoing care understands the next steps.
Commercial site handover considerations
Commercial sites often need a more structured watering handover than residential jobs.
There may be multiple people involved, including the installer, property manager, groundskeeper, maintenance contractor, builder, tenant, school staff or strata manager. If responsibility is unclear, watering can be missed during the most important period.
For schools, childcare centres, strata lawns, parks, commercial entries and public-facing landscapes, clear handover is especially important. These sites often have foot traffic, public visibility and multiple decision-makers. A written watering schedule helps keep everyone aligned.
After installation: keeping the new turf on track
Once the turf is installed, the focus shifts from laying the lawn to protecting it while the roots establish.
New turf needs consistent moisture through the early establishment phase. The turf itself and the upper soil profile should be kept moist, especially during the first week when the roots have not yet knitted into the soil below.
This does not mean flooding the lawn. The aim is to water often enough that the turf does not dry out, while still allowing water to move into the soil rather than sitting on the surface or running off.
Extra attention should be given to edges, joins, slopes, sunny areas and exposed sections, as these tend to dry out faster. Shaded areas and heavier soils may need less frequent watering, so the schedule should always be adjusted to the site conditions.
For landscapers, this is also an important handover point. The person responsible for looking after the lawn after installation, whether that is a homeowner, tenant, site manager, maintenance contractor or commercial groundskeeper, needs to understand what care is required, what signs of stress to look for, and when watering can gradually be reduced.
New turf watering schedule overview
There is no single lawn watering schedule that works perfectly for every site. Season, temperature, wind, soil type, shade, turf variety, irrigation coverage and site use all change how much water is needed.
However, the following schedule provides a practical guide for watering new lawn areas during establishment.
| Stage | Main goal | Watering approach | What to check |
| Installation day | Stop turf drying out and settle it onto the soil | Water immediately and progressively as turf is laid | Soil moisture, edges, joins, slopes and irrigation coverage |
| Days 1–7 | Keep turf and upper soil consistently moist | Water frequently, adjusting for heat, wind, shade and soil type | Curling, shrinking, dry edges, lifting corners, runoff or pooling |
| Weeks 2–3 | Encourage roots to move into the soil | Gradually reduce frequency and water a little deeper | Root attachment, dry spots, soil moisture and uneven establishment |
| Root establishment | Confirm the turf has knitted into the soil | Adjust watering based on root progress | Gently lift corners in different areas to check resistance |
| Weeks 4 onwards | Transition toward normal irrigation | Move to deeper, less frequent watering | Root depth, turf colour, weather conditions and site use |
| Established lawn | Maintain long-term turf health | Water based on season, soil type, rainfall and turf needs | Signs of drought stress, overwatering, compaction or irrigation gaps |
This schedule should be treated as a practical framework, not a fixed rule. The best results come from watching the lawn, checking the soil and adjusting the watering as the turf establishes.
Installation day
New turf should be watered as soon as possible after it is laid. In warm or windy conditions, this may mean watering sections progressively throughout the installation rather than waiting until the entire lawn is finished.
The goal on installation day is to make sure the turf and the soil directly beneath it are moist enough to support immediate recovery.
Practical steps include:
- Water the prepared soil before laying it if it is dry
- Begin watering turf as soon as sections are installed
- Make sure water reaches the underside of the turf and the topsoil below
- Avoid creating puddles or runoff
- Check edges, corners and joins carefully
- Water sloped or exposed areas with extra care
The turf should be moist, settled and in full contact with the soil. If there are air gaps, dry soil underneath, or poor contact between the turf and the base, root establishment may be uneven.
For landscapers, the key handover message is simple: watering on installation day is not optional. It is the first step in helping the new lawn survive and establish.
Days 1-7
The first week is usually the most vulnerable period for new turf.
During this stage, the turf has not yet developed strong roots into the soil below. The main priority is to prevent the turf and upper soil profile from drying out.
In many cases, this means watering at least daily, and sometimes more often in hot, windy or exposed conditions. On very warm days, light additional watering may be needed to cool the turf and stop it drying out between deeper watering sessions.
The aim is consistent moisture, not waterlogging.
During days 1–7, check for:
- Curling or lifting edges
- Shrinking between turf rolls
- Dry joins
- Dull, bluish or grey-green colour
- Footprints that remain visible
- Dry soil beneath the turf
- Water running off instead of soaking in
- Water pooling in shaded or low areas
Edges, joins, and exposed sections often dry faster than the middle of the lawn. These areas should be checked closely, especially on sites with slopes, hard surfaces and paths, concrete edges, retaining walls or full sun exposure.
Shade also matters. A shaded section may not need the same volume or frequency as a hot, exposed verge. Heavy soils may hold moisture longer, while sandy soils may dry quickly.
The first week is about observation as much as routine. A schedule helps, but the lawn will tell you whether it is getting enough water.
Weeks 2-3
By weeks 2–3, the turf should begin sending roots into the soil profile. This is when the watering can start to shift. Instead of frequent shallow watering only, the goal is to gradually reduce frequency and encourage deeper moisture movement. This helps the roots move down into the soil rather than staying close to the surface.
This transition should happen gradually. Cutting back too quickly can stress the turf before the roots are ready.
During weeks 2–3:
- Keep monitoring the lawn daily
· Reduce watering frequency where the turf is holding well
· Water a little deeper to encourage root growth
· Continue checking edges, joins and dry spots
· Avoid heavy foot traffic
· Watch for uneven establishment
· Adjust watering for heat, wind, rainfall and soil type
Some areas may establish faster than others. Full-sun areas, slopes, sandy soils and exposed edges may need more attention. Shaded or heavier soil areas may need less frequent watering.
This is also a good time to check whether water is entering the soil properly. If water is running off or sitting on the surface, there may be compaction, hydrophobic soil or irrigation coverage issues that need to be addressed.
Root establishment: how to check progress
Do not reduce watering based only on the number of days since installation. Check whether the turf has actually established.
A simple way to check root establishment is to gently lift a corner of the turf.
If the turf lifts easily, the roots have not fully knitted into the soil below. If it resists lifting, the roots are beginning to establish.
Check several areas, not just the healthiest-looking section. Root establishment can vary across the site depending on shade, soil condition, irrigation coverage, slope and turf contact.
When checking root establishment, look for:
- resistance when gently lifting the turf
- new white roots entering the soil
- even colour across the lawn
- fewer dry edges or joins
- stable turf that does not shift under light movement
- soil moisture below the turf, not just on top
If rooting is uneven, keep watering based on the weakest areas rather than the strongest sections. Reducing water too quickly can create patchy establishment and slow recovery.
Weeks 4 onwards: transition to normal irragation
Once the turf has rooted into the soil, the lawn can gradually transition to a normal irrigation routine.
At this stage, the aim is deeper, less frequent watering. This encourages stronger roots and helps the lawn become more resilient.
Ongoing shallow watering can keep roots close to the surface. That may make the turf more vulnerable during hot weather, dry periods or high-use conditions.
As the lawn establishes:
- reduce watering frequency gradually
- water more deeply when watering is needed
- water in the morning where possible
- adjust based on rainfall and soil moisture
- monitor for dry patches
- avoid overwatering shaded or heavy soil areas
- check irrigation coverage if the lawn is drying unevenly
For commercial sites, this may involve updating irrigation programming after the establishment period. The watering schedule used in week one should not automatically become the long-term irrigation schedule.
The lawn’s needs change once the roots are established
Seasonal adjustments for Australian conditions
Australian conditions vary significantly by region, season and site exposure. A new turf watering schedule should always be adjusted to the weather.
Summer and hot weather
Summer installations need close attention.
Heat, wind and reflected heat from concrete, roads, walls and paving can dry turf quickly. Exposed edges, joins, slopes and verges are often the first areas to show stress.
In hot weather:
- water early in the day
- monitor turf during the hottest part of the day
- use additional light watering if turf is drying out
- check edges, joins and exposed sections closely
- avoid letting the turf dry between watering sessions in the first week
- watch for runoff on dry or hydrophobic soil
In extreme heat, short cooling waterings may be useful, especially while the turf is still establishing. These should not replace deeper watering, but they can help reduce stress during the most vulnerable stage.
Autumn and spring
Autumn and spring are often more forgiving seasons for turf establishment.
Temperatures are generally milder, evaporation may be lower than summer, and the turf may have a better opportunity to establish without extreme heat stress.
However, watering still matters.
During autumn and spring:
- continue watering immediately after installation
- monitor warm, windy or dry days
- do not assume rainfall has watered deeply enough
- reduce watering gradually as roots establish
- check soil moisture below the turf
These seasons can be excellent for turf installation, but the lawn still needs consistent care through establishment.
Winter and cooler weather
In cooler conditions, turf may establish more slowly.
Evaporation is lower, which means the lawn may not need watering as frequently as it would in summer. However, slower growth also means the establishment phase may take longer.
In winter or cooler periods:
- avoid following a summer watering schedule without adjustment
- monitor soil moisture rather than watering by habit
- be careful not to overwater shaded or heavy soil areas
- allow for slower root growth
- keep the turf moist enough to support establishment
- watch for waterlogging or p
- r drainage
Warm-season grasses may take longer to root in cooler weather, so patience and monitoring are important.
Soil-type adjustments
Soil type has a major influence on how new turf should be watered.
A lawn watering schedule should always be adjusted based on how the soil accepts, holds and drains water.
Sandy soils
Sandy soils drain quickly and often hold less moisture.
On sandy sites, new turf may need more frequent watering during establishment, especially in warm or windy weather. The challenge is keeping the upper profile moist without simply letting water pass through too quickly.
Wetting agents and suitable soil preparation can be helpful where sandy soil is also hydrophobic.
Clay and heavier soils
Clay and heavier soils hold moisture for longer, but they can also become waterlogged if overwatered.
On heavy soils, water more carefully and monitor whether the profile is staying too wet. If water sits on the surface, pools in low areas or the turf feels soft and boggy underfoot, reduce watering and check drainage.
The goal is moist soil, not saturated soil.
Compacted soils
Compacted soils can prevent water from moving properly through the profile.
Water may pool, run off or only enter through cracks. If new turf is installed over compacted soil, roots may struggle to move down and the lawn may establish unevenly.
Where compaction is present, soil preparation before installation is critical. After installation, monitor carefully for runoff, dry patches and poor root development.
Hydrophobic soils
Hydrophobic soil repels water and can make new turf establishment difficult.
If water beads or runs off before turf is laid, the issue should be treated before installation. This may involve wetting agent, cultivation, topsoil improvement or replacing unsuitable material.
If hydrophobic behaviour appears during establishment, treat it early. Do not simply increase watering volume without checking whether water is actually entering the soil.
Slopes, edges and exposed areas
Slopes, edges and exposed areas often dry faster than the rest of the lawn.
They may need extra attention during the first few weeks, especially where the turf borders paths, roads, walls, fences or paved areas.
These areas should be checked manually rather than relying only on the irrigation system.
Turf variety considerations
Different turf varieties have different growth habits, recovery patterns and drought tolerance. However, all new turf needs consistent moisture during establishment.
Relevant turf varieties for Australian landscapers include:
- Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo
- Stampede Buffalo
- TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda
- Eureka Kikuyu
- Sir Grange Zoysia
- Zoysia Australis
Buffalo varieties such as Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo and Stampede Buffalo are often chosen for their soft leaf, shade tolerance and strong residential appeal. TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda is valued for full-sun performance and strong drought tolerance once established. Eureka Kikuyu is vigorous and can recover well in suitable sunny areas. Sir Grange Zoysia and Zoysia Australis offer attractive zoysia characteristics where their growth habit and maintenance profile suit the site.
The important thing to remember is that drought tolerance matters most after establishment.
A drought-tolerant turf still needs water during the first few weeks. Until roots have grown into the soil below, the turf relies on consistent moisture to survive, recover and establish properly.
Common watering mistakes after new turf installation
Many new lawn problems come back to watering habits during establishment.
Common mistakes include:
- waiting too long to water after installation
- watering the surface but not the soil beneath
- letting edges and joins dry out
- watering too lightly for too long
- overwatering shaded or heavy soil areas
- reducing watering too quickly
- ignoring heat and wind
- assuming rainfall has done enough
- failing to check irrigation coverage
- allowing heavy use before roots establish
- not adjusting the schedule once roots start developing
One of the biggest mistakes is treating the watering schedule as fixed. New turf needs close attention in the first few weeks. The schedule should respond to the site, not the other way around.
Commercial site handover considerations
Commercial sites often need a more structured watering handover than residential jobs.
There may be multiple people involved, including the installer, property manager, groundskeeper, maintenance contractor, builder, tenant, school staff or strata manager. If responsibility is unclear, watering can be missed during the most important period.
For commercial sites, it is worth documenting:
- who is responsible for watering
- when watering starts
- how often watering should occur during the first week
- who checks the lawn each day
- how irrigation is programmed
- which areas are high risk
- when the first inspection should happen
- when watering should start to reduce
- who approves the transition to normal irrigation
High-risk areas should be clearly identified. These may include verges, slopes, entrances, playground surrounds, exposed edges, shaded heavy-soil areas and any section with inconsistent irrigation coverage.
For schools, childcare centres, strata lawns, parks, commercial entries and public-facing landscapes, clear handover is especially important. These sites often have foot traffic, public visibility and multiple decision-makers. A written watering schedule helps keep everyone aligned.
Check local water rules
Water restrictions and exemptions can vary depending on your location, water provider and current conditions.
Before installing turf or setting a watering schedule, check the relevant local water rules. New lawns may have specific allowances or exemption requirements in some areas, but these should not be assumed.
For landscapers, this is another useful handover point. Make sure the person responsible for watering understands both the turf establishment needs and any local watering requirements that apply to the site.
Work with Buy Turf Online
A good new turf watering schedule helps protect the quality of the installation and gives the lawn the best chance to establish properly.
For landscapers, it also supports a smoother handover. When the person responsible for aftercare understands what to do on installation day, through the first week, into root establishment and beyond, the lawn is far more likely to perform as intended.
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FAQs
How long do you need to water a new lawn?
The most intensive watering is usually needed during the first few weeks after installation.
However, the exact timeframe depends on root establishment. Warm weather, sandy soil and exposed sites may require closer attention, while cooler weather may slow root growth and extend the establishment period.
Do not reduce watering based only on the calendar. Check whether the turf has rooted into the soil.
Can you overwater new turf?
Yes, new turf can be overwatered.
Overwatering can create waterlogging, reduce oxygen movement through the soil and contribute to weak root development. This is more likely in shaded areas, heavy soils, low spots or poorly drained sites.
New turf should be kept moist, not flooded.
What time of day should you water new turf?
Morning is generally the best time to water new turf, especially once it begins transitioning toward normal irrigation.
During the first week, additional watering may be needed during the day in hot, windy or exposed conditions to stop the turf drying out. Avoid relying only on evening watering if the lawn is drying out during the heat of the day.
How do you know if new turf is getting enough water?
New turf is usually getting enough water when the turf remains evenly coloured, the soil beneath is moist, edges are not curling or shrinking, and roots are beginning to attach to the soil.
Signs that the turf may need more attention include dry edges, lifting corners, dull or bluish colour, visible shrinkage between rolls, footprints that stay visible, or dry soil underneath the turf.
Can rain replace watering new turf?
Rain can help, but it should not be assumed to be enough.
Light rain may wet the surface without reaching the soil beneath the turf. After rainfall, check the soil moisture manually. If the underside of the turf or the topsoil below is still dry, additional watering is needed.
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